Hiking the Alaka`i Swamp - Part 1
The Alaka`i Swamp on the island of Kaua`i is not easy to get to. It used to be you could drive any rental car to the head of the Pihea trail and from there be quickly on your way into the swamp, but more often than not now the last mile or so of the road is closed due to potholes and persistent underfunding of the Hawai`i state parks system.
But in any case, the hike in is quicker from the Alaka`i Trail head. The 3-mile drive there, though, is not for the faint of heart these days. I was lucky; I began my research there in 1998, in the midst of a 4-5 year dry spell during which the road had just been graded; this may happen only every decade or so, probably whenever a bit of money can be freed up to do the work. By my last summer in the swamp in 2002, it was wet again, and the choice in many places was between trenching through foot-deep ruts or skating along the slick edges, while gunning the engine to get uphill, and beyond a steep drop-off to the deep canyon below.
From the trail head it is about a half mile until the beginning of the boardwalk. The boardwalk, built around 15 years ago, is a huge boon to hikers and researchers alike, and has helped protect a fragile ecosystem from constant erosion and trampling. The plants along this first part of the trail, including alien eucalyptus, fire trees, and the beginning thickets of strawberry guavas, are likely foreshadowing the future of the swamp; each time you return you notice the aliens have encroached a bit farther in. It's not just plants; it was a shock for me to discover ants in the swamp in 2002, never having before seen them in all the long days I worked there. (There are no native Hawaiian ants, but 40+ alien species have arrived on the islands, mostly via the horticulture trade.)
Finally, as you leave the edge of the boardwalk behind and march deeper into the Alaka`i Swamp, most of the alien plants melt away, and you are transported into a wonderland of island biogeography. Islands tend to have unique native flora and fauna, with many endemic species (occurring nowhere else). The farther the island from a continental land mass, from which species have naturally invaded over the millenia, the fewer the number of common ancestors that the island's species have. In taxonomic terms, this means you can end up with hundreds or even thousands of species within a single genus, as the descendents of a single common ancestor -- the seed washing up from the ocean, blown on the wind or stuck to a bird; the gravid female moth or ballooning spider blown off course for a thousand miles -- diversify rapidly (in geological time) to fill a whole new land of empty ecological niches. At the same time, whole taxonomic families of plants, insects, and birds do not exist in the islands, because serendipity did not bring them here.
This results in the unique jungle you pass through along the boardwalk, with one of the richest native plant assemblages remaining in the islands. The invaders are working their way in, though. To a local ecologist, the tangles of thorny blackberry plants and the sweet August aromas of kahili ginger blooms jar the senses, and turn the stomach. These don't belong here. They come from places distant enough that they could not have arrived by any method other than active human husbandry. But the blackberry is reaching farther and farther from the trails, its thorny branches and leaves standing out. No Hawaiian natives have thorns, including a native blackberry that supposedly occurs in the swamp, but that I have never seen in the wild. No native herbivorous mammals means no need for thorns; the imported pigs and deer here find the native plants quite succulent, and eschew the aliens with their defenses in place.
The ginger starts in a thick clump and spreads from there, quickly dominating light gaps before the slower native plants can gain a foothold. Despite the ecological damage this plant is doing, several species species of ginger are still sold as ornamentals. Apparently the profits of the horticulturists are more precious to Hawai`i's government than an ecosystem being slowly wiped forever off the face of the earth.
But these are the only two plants to gain a strong foothold in the swamp so far. Why? Is it because of the conditions here, which at times are decidedly untropical? On a winter day, the temperature can range from freezing to over seventy degrees farenheit; in summer the highs are much higher, the sun scorching at this altitude when the clouds have dissipated. The rainfall here is upwards of twenty feet a year. Rather than a true swamp, it is really a cloud forest, with most water provided in a constant dripping of condensation off the leaves, as opposed to torrential downpours.
Ohi`a, the dominant native plant, thrives under these conditions. It also thrives along the new lava flows of the kona coast of the Big Island, where barely a plant has yet gained traction, fresh water is only an occasional visitor, and the hard black lava radiates hundred-degree heat back on the trees from below. But you might suspect that a mutual transplant experiment would not work. The coastal Big Island ohi`a and the high-altitude Kaua`i ohi`a are two of dozens of subspecies of this plant classified within a mere three species, and they have clearly adapted to local conditions. But Hawaiian plants do not lend themselves easily to human-imposed Linnaean classification. The word "species" itself is completely inadequate to describe the multitudinous forms of life that occur in the world only on these islands.
To be continued...
Labels: environment, evolution, Hawaii, invasive species
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